The jetlag clears, but the smog doesn't. Eww.

So Cairo. Twenty million people squished into the fertile land around the Nile, and an ungodly number of cars crowded onto the narrow streets of an unbelievably compact city. The population is 95% Muslim, and a mixture of Arab, Nubian, Bedouin, and (other) descent. Old Cairo is east of the Nile, but the city has blossomed around the river and become something truly incredible. Old news for those of you who have traveled/lived here before. I'd apologize, but you're probably going to have to get used to it anyway.

Cairo is dirty. Wow. The smog is really horrific, and everything is grimey and grayish brown. It smells like Nairobi but dustier and with more cigarette smoke, as people smoke everywhere all the time. Including in the hallway outside my dorm room as I write this. When I wash my hair, the shampoo washes out brownish from all the dirt. Gotta love that. And yes, the traffic is just as awful as everyone said. Crossing the street is like playing Frogger, we decided. This place isn't exactly my dream home.

I'm living in the American University in Cairo (AUC) student hostel in Zamalek, a neighborhood on Al Gezira (hard “g” in Egyptian Arabic), a large island in the middle of the Nile. It's about five minutes to the river and about a half hour's walk through ridiculous traffic to reach downtown. Zamalek is a middle-upper class neighborhood full of foreigners and embassies, a lot like Westlands, my home in Nairobi. AUC has recently moved its campus from the downtown area near Tahrir Square to the middle of the desert to the east of the city. The shuttle ride averages about an hour, but that depends a great deal on the traffic. Quite a bit like the ride to USIU... haha. Here's the view from the road to AUC once we've exited the city.

The other day, we walked to Tahrir Square (the biggest square in Cairo) and visited the old AUC campus. Lovely. The new campus is VERY different. I assumed it wouldn't look like traditional campuses (since it's in the desert and all), but they've really done a gorgeous job with the place. It's all sandstone and mosaics and classic architecture, but still a very modern campus.

This week has been orientation, basically. Getting my AUC ID card, textbooks, shampoo, and new friends, plus exploring and trying new foods. Favorite thus far is definitely koushari, which is macaroni, rice, spaghetti, lentils, fava beans, caramelized onions, spicy tomato sauce, cilantro, with some lemony garlic and chili sauce poured on top. It's 3 LE (Egyptian pounds – 3 is about $.50) for a Cool Whip container full. I will not be coming back to the US any skinnier. My stomach is handling things pretty well. It's been a little rumbly since I introduced it to the fried and spicy street foods, but I think it knows it's going to have to man up and deal with it.

AUC has been offering us evening trips around the city to explore Egyptian culture. I decided to take advantage, since the prices are pretty good. Sunday night we went out toward Giza, ate some delicious Bedouin food, and went horseback riding in the dunes (well within sight of the pyramids and far enough from the city that we could see lots of stars). It was breathtaking and romantic until my horse, who apparently was in dire need of a bathroom stop, peed on my right foot (while I was in the saddle). I have to admit, I found it absolutely hilarious. This is one of my favorite pictures so far. Very cliche, but it came out well.

We also took a Nile cruise the other night. It was nice overall, but definitely pushed me past my beingtreatedlikeatourist limit. No more of that for me. It was dinner, Egytian music, and dancers who pull you onto the dance floor so an employee can take pictures to sell you. No me gusta, although the view was pretty.

Last night we spent a couple of hours at Khal al Khalili market. It brought back a lot of memories of Nairobi, but was again too touristy for our collective taste. We're going to explore some of the other markets and find one where Egyptians actually shop.

Here's my room. The bed is covered in crap because I'm packing for a little road trip a few of us are taking this weekend. We're leaving tonight around midnight so we can get back for class on Sunday. Weekends here are Friday and Saturday, fyi. Anyhoo, details of the trip next time! :)