The matatu: a little local flavor for you...

As my last update discussed my least favorite part of my travels in Kenya, I should provide some insight into the things that are making me absolutely crazy about this place. Particularly since certain Kenyans have discovered my blog and think I'm miserable here. ;) So without further ado, I'll tell you about matatus, my favorite part of Nairobi.

Matatus are the biggest form of public transportation in Kenya. They're about the size of an American van, I think, but they seat 14-20 people. The most accurate description of matatus I've heard thus far is courtesy of Amanda, my flatmate, who compared them to the Knight Bus from the Harry Potter books. Translation: I am infinitely more likely to die in a matatu than I am to get a tropical disease or suffer the effects of any post-election violence.

I should preface this discussion with some background information about roads in Kenya. For starters, they're in generally horrible condition. Potholes are everywhere. There are no rules to the road that I'm aware of. You drive as fast as you want, as dangerously as you want, anywhere on the road you want. Lanes are suggestions, at best. I think there are three traffic lights in all of Nairobi... I've only seen one that I can recall. Pedestrians don't have the right of way, which takes a lot of getting used to after walking all over Washington. You cross streets are your own risk, usually at a sprint.

So. Matatus. They make up about half the traffic at some points during the day. The matatus that run in the slums are always painted a crazy color, decorated according to a random theme, have neon lights on the inside, and a slightly absurd message painted on the back window. Some of the best have said, “Skankin',” “Drive It Like You Stole It,” “Crunk and Disorderly,” and “Philadelphia Eagles.” Yesterday I saw one with a Missouri Tigers logo on it and cracked up. My favorite matatu had a “Crunk” decal and “Thank You Jesus” printed on the same window. Such an interesting clash of cultures.

There's almost always hip hop blasting from all the matatus on the road. In the best ones, you can feel the bass reverberating in your ribcage. It's just sort of exhilarating to be flying down the streets of Nairobi in a beat-up van with manual transmission, smelling the intense diesel exhaust with your ears full of music. I'm going to miss matatu rides a hell of a lot.

The drivers tend to be fantastic characters, though most of them have got to be completely insane to drive the way they do. There's some sort of bond between them, so they'll chat with each other in traffic and ask each other where they found the white girl sitting in the front seat. At the same time, they cut each other off and take ridiculous risks (like driving on the wrong side of the road, on sidewalks, cutting inbetween lanes, that sort of thing). They drive so close to one another a driver can usually just lean out the window, holler at another driver who committed an offense, and give the other matatu a slap on its side. At the matatu stages downtown, they'll sometimes play bumper cars with one another in an effort to dislodge themselves from traffic... even if there are passengers inside.

Every matatu has a tout who acts as a sort of conductor, recruiting passengers, collecting fares, and instructing the driver when to stop. With the tourism industry suffering like it is, passengers tend to get manhandled at the stations downtown. Touts will sometimes physically pull you into their matatu. They're that desperate for business. As shady as that might sound, though, the touts are generally great people. I've made a couple of good friends among them that I see downtown almost every afternoon.

Matatus are cheap, but they're a bit risky. Yes, they crash a fair amount, but the bigger risk is from pickpockets. You just have to be careful with your valuables and choose your matatu carefully (never get in an empty one, try to find one with women in it, don't leave your window wide open, etc). Anyway, it costs about $.15 from Westlands to our bus stop for school and about $.40 for the ride home from downtown. Nice and cheap, which is great, since I'd rather shoot myself in the foot than try to drive in this city. We take matatus to go into town, get to the bus stop for USIU, and travel to our internships, so we're on them regularly.

So that's my favorite part of Kenya. Strange, I realize, but you'd love it too if you could try it. Tension is still simmering all over Kenya, but Nairobi is very calm lately. I hope nobody is too worried these days.

Miss you all terribly – feel free to shoot me an email if you haven't already.